Archive for the ‘San Diego Sights’ Category

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Global Consciousness-Raising

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

No theater in the US has had a longer commitment to presenting Shakespeare than San Diego’s Old Globe.  That’s one of the factoids I learned on a recent behind-the-scenes tour of the landmark theatrical complex.IMGP3942

I had wanted to see the results of the recently completed $22 million renovations. For anyone accustomed to associating just one name with this place – Cassius Carter, a Shakespeare lover and district attorney active in San Diego in the early 1900s whose name was given to the theater-in-the-round that opened in 1969 — the new appellations are a little head-spinning. The whole complex has now been named after local philanthropist Conrad Prebys, who kicked in $10.4 million of the construction funds. The Globe’s directors used that money to demolish the Carter and replace it with a new theater that’s been named for $6 million donors Sheryl and Harvey White.  Also new is an education center named after Karen and Donald Cohn ($5.35 mil) and a events room named after Kathryn Hattox ($5 mil). Even the lobby has been christened after Erna and Andrew Viterbi ($2 mil). It seems almost miraculous that the new bathrooms incorporated into the White Theater don’t have namesakes too.

Although the new theater at first glance resembles the Carter (it’s still a theater-in-the-round), it now boasts more than just those bathrooms (which the old facility lacked). Entrances and exits have been greatly improved and 30 seats added, including some thIMGP3934at are wider.  (There’s even a loveseat to accommodate jumbo-sized theatrical patrons.)

The tour took in more than just the new stuff, including lots of  inside touches. We were led into the actors’ green room, dressing rooms, and the costuming department, which has a year-round staff of 16 and can balloon up to more than 60 people during the busiest times of the year. The latter yielded a particularly fascinating factoid, namely that misting vodka on smelly clothes removes the body odor without leaving any stain. I also learned that the Globe never uses as an on-stage prop any book published after the date of the time portrayed in the play. Our guide mentioned that the first incarnation of San Diego’s Old Globe was designed for the 1935 Exposition by Thomas Wood Stevens as a copy of one built for the Chicago world’s fair, which in turn was a copy of the Globe in London. Quite the huckster, Stevens presented up to 6 severely abridged (50-minute-long) Shakespearean plays a day.

Although I took the tour with a group from the San Diego Professional Tour Guide Association, the Globe offers the backstage tours at 10:30 a.m. many Saturdays and Sundays year-round. The charge is $5 per person; $3 for students and folks aged 60 and older. No reservation is necessary, but call (619) 231-1941 to make sure tours are planned for any given weekend.

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Posted in Balboa Park, San Diego Sights | No Comments »

4 Tons of Magic

Sunday, February 14th, 2010

The Jade Buddha for Universal PeaceSadly, the Jade Buddha for Universal Peace will only be with us for 2 more days.  But it’s pretty amazing he made it here as fast as he did.

The 18-ton gem-quality boulder from which he sprang was only discovered (in Northern Canada) 10 years ago, and it wasn’t until 2003 that a Buddhist lama, Zopa Rinpoche, divined that the boulder had to be made into a holy object and offered to the world. By giant Buddha-carving standards, the next 5 years saw a frenzy of activity: raising money to buy the jade; making multiple prototypes (modeled after the most famous Buddha in the world, which resides inside the Mahabodhi Stupa in Bodh Gaya, India),  and assembling a team of jade-carving masters in Thailand. The carving and polishing were completed in December of 2008. Named (by Zopa Rinpoche) the Jade Buddha for Universal Peace, the massive object began a world tour that took it first to Vietnam. There an estimated 3.5 million people paid their respects to it. It went on to spend 6 months in Australia and then arrived at the Phap Vuong Monastery in Escondido on Superbowl Sunday.

Monastery officials later estimated that more than 10,000 people turned out well before the big game began, and the monastery has been abuzz with round-the-clock activity ever since. When I arrived around noon yesterday, more than 100 cars filled the parking lot, and the flags lining the central pathway fluttered against a cobalt sky. A festive crowd moved throughout the grounds, milling around tables bearing jade chips for sale, and eating rice and stir-fried vegetables at long communal tables. The nexus of excitement, though, was the tent sheltering the statue, a riot of colorful fruit and flowers and fabrics.  Some of those who stood, barefoot, on the bamboo mats surrounding the pavilion snapped photos, while others prostrated themselves, reverent.  The Buddha’s face is painted with non-reflecting gold, a Tibetan and Nepalese tradition.  He looked happy.

He’ll move on to Florida next, followed by a dozen and a half more stops in the US and Canada. Then he’ll make his way through Europe, finally settling down to a permanent home in Australia.  If he works his magic the way Zopa Rinpoche predicted, he’ll bring inconceivable peace and happiness to the world. That can’t come a moment too soon.  

Posted in Art, San Diego Sights, Special Events | 1 Comment »

Soaring Spot

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

glidersNice to see the good news in yesterday’s Union-Tribune: that some attention is finally being paid to sprucing up the Torrey Pines Gliderport. I think the site should rank among our more interesting tourist attractions, but the existing facilities are pretty scruffy. Who knows if the city will really be able to scrounge up any money for this?  But it’s good to know it’s a possibility.

I hadn’t realized that the gliderport was listed in the National Registry of Historic Places. Less surprising was the news that it played an important role in the development of hang gliding and paragliding.  According to the Union’s story, one of the players in that history was Charles Lindbergh, who was the first person to fly above the bluffs (in a sailplane that took him from Mount Soledad to Del Mar on February 24, 1930). The gliderport’s website says it was “first established as a soaring site in 1928 and has defined the history of motor less flight.”

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Asian San Diego

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

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Among San Diego’s many museums, the one devoted to San Diego Chinese history is easy to overlook. That’s a shame, I discovered, when I finally got around to a visit there. Opened in 1996, the museum sits at the heart of the city’s Asian Pacific Historic District (so designated in 1987). By San Francisco or even LA standards, this is not much of a Chinatown. But there’s a reason why. Although the Chinese who immigrated to San Diego in the second half of the 1800s were forced to live on and around lower Third Street downtown, their numbers never exceeded 1000 or so.  When the laws and prejudices that had prevented them from living outside the Gaslamp Area were dismantled after World War II, they assimilated into neighborhoods throughout the city. Kearny Mesa in particular has become a stronghold for Asian restaurants and other commercial enterprises in recent decades. But while that has taken place,  the old downtown quarters have slowly gained recognition for their historic roots. There’s more to come, according to the guide who led the Saturday morning walking tour that I joined.  According to him, the City of San Diego has already committed to adding more Asian street lamps on Third Street, as well as 8-foot-tall stone lions and a gate, to be installed at Third and Market.

On the tour, some of the information sounded suspiciously inaccurate to me. But I enjoyed the museum. In the Chinese Mission Building on the southeast corner of Third and J, beautifully constructed diaramas of the old historical fishing village and the Wild Western Chinatown charmed me, as did the detailed display about the Chinese laundries that once proliferated here. There’s also a sweet little garden out in back, complete with a limestone Buddha head IMGP3900which a plaque proclaims to have been carved in a cave in the Shanxi Province some 1500 years ago. It was a little weird to hear the Mexican radio station playing in the kitchen of Candelas, the excellent Mexican restaurant that adjoins the Chinese Museum.  In fact, it’s a little weird (or sad) that the Asian District includes not a single Chinese restaurant. It does have a museum annex (across from the Mission Building) that houses rotating exhibitions.

The museum is open from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and noon to 4 on Sundays.  Admission is just $2. This weekend promises to offer even more diversions.  It’s the 28th annual San Diego Chinese New Year fair (this year celebrating the Year of the Tiger). For details on the two days of Chinese acrobats, lion and dragon dancers, Chinese folk dance and music, and more, see http://2010.sdcny.org.

 

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Posted in San Diego Sights, Special Events | 1 Comment »

Starring San Diego

Friday, August 28th, 2009

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I doubt that San Diego tourists will ever be able to buy that longtime staple of touristic offerings in Hollywood — a map of where local movie stars live. When I worked on the staff of the Reader, I once tried to compile one, but we finally abandoned the project; the celebrity pickings were too slim and the hassles of disclosing their residences too many.

But locals and visitors alike may soon have the next best thing: a map of where famous movies and other locations were shot here, created by the San Diego Film Commission.  Speaking before the San Diego Professional Tour Guide Association yesterday, Film Commissioner Cathy Anderson (the Commission’s President and CEO) disclosed that her organization is working on the map project now. Although the details of how it will be distributed are still being worked out, Anderson wants the map both to show where various projects were filmed and recount some of the colorful stories associated with them.

Her talk made it sound as if there’s plenty of material. Filming of movies and TV shows, commericals, music videos, corporate training pieces, fashion photography, travel and educational shows and other miscellaneous projects takes place 365 days a year here, and Anderson makes a persuasive case that the local film commission deserves credit for attracting a lot of that activity. Before its founding in the late 1970s, filming accounted for less than $400,000 a year in San Diego. Then the TV series Harry-O arrived in search of fresh locations, and local businesses salivated at the promise of the cash in-flows that might result. But the producers ran into such bureaucratic bottlenecks they grew frustrated and returned to LA. The loss of that business eventually prompted then-mayor Pete Wilson and other business advocates to set up an agency charged with turning San Diego into a filmmaking haven.

Among the ensuing innovations was a radical streamlining of the permitting process.  Anderson says today filmmakers and local government agencies sit down for an all-inclusive round-table discussion of what the artists want to do. All the necessary permits can be generated in little more than an hour, she asserts. The city also charges filmmakers no use fees, and even police services are provided at a discounted cost.

Such measures and other services (such as the film commission’s library of 30,000 potential shoot locations) have fueled a boom that in both 2005 and 2007 approached $100 million dollars.  (The city’s annual contribution, in contrast, is less than $700,000.) Although the film related economic activity plunged in 2008 because of the recession and the increasing practice of other cities paying filmmakers to shoot within their confines, Anderson still sounds upbeat about all the projects in the works here. Among some of the more intriguing: an FX show called Terriers that Anderson describes as “sort of The Rockford Files meets Simon & Simon” set in an Ocean Beach that’s treated as if it were a separate city with its own police force. An upcoming movie (Paul) about two comic-book geeks required 500 extras to be hired a few weeks ago to recreate Comic Con. (The logistics of filming during the real thing were too overwhelming.)

Until the map of San Diego film highlights becomes available, here’s a suggestion for an interim treat.  Check out the film commission’s page of local filming trivia to learn, among other things, which San Diego County park doubled as Mesopotamia in 3000 B.C. in the 2001 mummy movie The Scorpion King and what San Diego location was used to simulate radio station KPRI in the 1998 feature Almost Famous.

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Posted in San Diego Sights, The San Diego economy | No Comments »

A Birthday for the USS Neversail

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

uss-recruit-bow-editedThe next time you drive along Harbor Drive between the airport and Nimitz Boulevard, give a quick salute to the gray Naval frigate parked just beyond the Starbucks at Liberty Station. It will celebrate its 60th birthday next Monday (July 27). To my mind, there’s a good case to be made that it’s the most interesting ship in in our boat-centric city.

Of course there’s also an excellent case to be made that the USS Recruit isn’t a ship at all, but rather a building constructed to look like a Navy ship. Most of what I know about the Recruit comes from a report researched by Mike Ryan, the former president of the San Diego Professional Tour Guide Association (and circulated to the SDPTGA membership). Ryan says the replica (also known as the USS Neversail) was built by the public works department of the San Diego Naval Training Center (NTC), the naval facility that operated here between 1923 and 1997 and made some 1.75 million recruits seaworthy. (Now only the Great Lakes Naval Training Center in Illinois serves as the Navy’s boot camp.) Designated Building 460, the USS Recruit was designed to look like a 225-foot-long Destroyer Escort, according to Ryan, but later lengthened by 8 feet and converted into a Training Guided Missile Frigate.

“Its keel is a concrete slab; its hull is sheet metal over wood framing, and its weapons were fabricated out of wood and metal pipes,” Ryan writes. “However, the Recruit did have real berthing for 54 sailors, a head (lavatory), and a shower. It also has many authentic ship parts onboard including waterproof hatches, real Navy rigging (ropes and mooring lines), cleats on which to tie the lines, signal halyards, searchlights, and even an engine order telegraph.” Also onboard were three classrooms, a captain’s quarters, a flag cabin, and a bridge. Recruits trained on the ship learned how to use the equipment and move through the small passages efficiently.

Ryan points out that the pseudo-ship was the third USS Recruit in US Naval history. The first was another land-locked replica, built to look like the Battleship USS Maine and set up in Manhattan’s Union Square during World War I. It was used to recruit some 25,000 men and women into the military  (during its 3-year life, its deck was also use to stage a presentation of Gilbert and Sullivan’s HMD Pinafore, as well as a 1918 boxing match.) The second USS Recruit was a real ship that saw battle during World War II and was finally decommissioned in 1962.

Our local Recruit was one of three such training ships built after the Second World War, according to Ryan. While the two others (the USS Bluejet in Orlando and the USS Marlinespike in Great Lakes, Illinois) eventually were dismantled, the USS Recruit has now been designated a California Registered Historical Landmark.

But its future still seems cloudy, Ryan says. With its sheet-metal sides starting to rust and its rope railings rotting, the Recruit is now under the control of the McMillin Companiestern-editeds (which developed NTC into Liberty Station after the training center was closed). McMillan would like someone else to step up to the job of renovating the frigate, but the most likely candidates (the San Diego Maritime Museum and the USS Midway Museum) have their hands full with other responsibilities. Ryan mentions the Sea Cadets, San Diego Navy Historical Association, and a local shipbuilder’s association as other potential caretaker candidates. Among the challenges looming for anyone who would step up to the caretaking task: the fact that the Recruit wasn’t built to meet the City of San Diego’s building codes (a trifle the Navy didn’t have to be concerned with) and the fact that if it were opened to the public, it would have to comply with Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) requirements for access. Slapping an elevator next to the old frigate certainly wouldn’t be historical, but it would be all that more eye-catching, no?

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Posted in Military life, On the Waterfront, San Diego Sights | 1 Comment »

Tasty

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009
Beer and chocolate

Beer and chocolate

It’s not often that I find myself wishing I lived in Escondido. It’s a nice enough town, just a little too warm and far from the ocean for my taste. But the folks at Stone Brewing almost make me forget that (particularly after I’ve had a glass or two of one of their intensely flavored beers.)

More than even the beer, what I appreciate is how the crew at Stone has transformed a not terribly interesting part of Escondido into a lively social and cultural center.  The beautifully designed bistro and gardens are part of the draw, but there’s also so much imagination and creativity evident in the line-up of events. Steve and I (and almost 50 other people) took part in a Beer and Chocolate class last weekend at which we tasted 7 chocolates made by Chuao, the daring San Diego-based Venezuelan “fusion-chocolatiers.” These were paired with 6 Stone brews selected to bring out the best qualities in each. We found it a remarkably congenial and delicious experience, with Chuao’s salt-butter caramel Melao bonbon and Stone’s Pale Ale  capturing my heart.  (Or was it the caramel-fudge, chipotle chile, salt, and popping candy Firecracker and the Bitter Chocolate Oatmeal Stout? Or that lemon tequila dark chocolate ganache Cinco de Mayo, downed with the Stone IPA?)

The “beer and sushi” clplateful-editedass taking place tonight is sold out, but there are plenty more intriguing food events coming up: a sour beer festival next Sunday (July 19), beer and cheeses on the 25th, a dinner celebrating fresh local cuisine August 3.  Non-gustatory events sound equally intriguing.  Every Wednesday night, Stone screens a movie in the gardens, and on July 23rd, Will Wheaton (the former Ensign Wesley Crusher on Star Trek: The Next Generation and current author, blogger, and Twitterer) will do a reading. And if the Call of the Chocolate sounds more loudly than anything else, there’ll be a repeat Sunday, August 16, this time featuring the offerings of Eclipse Chocolat.

 

 

 

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Posted in San Diego Sights, San Diego Tastes | 2 Comments »

Our Plymouth Rock

Friday, July 10th, 2009
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Park Ranger Parish Rye

The locations where the first English immigrants settled on the east coast of North America are a big deal in Jamestown, Virginia and Plymouth, Massachusetts. But the site where the first Europeans settled on the west coast of North America gets no respect. Anyone who goes on the San Diego Insider Tours Time Travel Adventure gets to visit that historic spot, but otherwise it’s not so easy to experience it. That’s even truer now that budgetary constraints have forced the the San Diego Historical Society to suspend regular visiting hours at its Junipero Serra Museum, located just up the hill in Presidio Park from where Fr. Junipero Serra founded Mission San Diego de Alcala almost 240 years ago (on July 16, 1769).

Lots of people mistakenly assume that the museum originally housed that first California mission. In fact, it was designed by architect William Templeton Johnson in Mission Revival style and built in 1929, a gift to the city from local philanthropist George Marston. All the original settlement buildings disappeared long ago, after the site was abandoned in 1830.  The ruins have been excavated at various times by several archeological teams, but the dig sites have always been buried to preserve them.

To appreciate the importance of this place, it thus takes a knowledgeable guide — like San Diego Park Ranger Parish Rye. Once a month, Rye gives a free hour-long tour of the original settlement. I was the only one who showed up for last month’s offering. But even for an audience of one, Rye deftly conjured up what life was like when several hundred people made their home on this hillside overlooking the San Diego River. Although the earliest missionaries left the site just 5 years after arriving and moved upriver to better land and a more predictable water source, the soldiers of the presidio (the fort) remained. Eventually the Spanish government permitted wives and children to join them. Rye can point out where the unmarried soldiers quarters were, the foundation of the dwelling inhabited by governor Gaspar de Portolá (He lived on the site now marked by a tall cross built from some of the settlement’s original adobe bricks), and a lot more.

Presidio Park is also an important botanical repository, and Rye knows a lot about what it includes. He’s been working to compile a comprehensive plant index for several years. His next free tour will be given this coming Sunday at 1 p.m. Find him near the museum doors.

 

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Posted in Looking Back in Time, San Diego Sights | No Comments »

Marshall South Online

Saturday, June 13th, 2009

Few of us have had as flamboyantly romantic a vision as Marshal South. Around 1930, with the US sinking ever deeper inmarshallto Depression, South and his young wife Tanya packed their few possessions into their Model T Ford, drove to the desert east of San Diego, found a mountaintop that appealed to them, and decided to live on it, as simply and naturally as the native Americans who once preceded them. They called the place Ghost Mountain and within five years they’d constructed a compact adobe home that they christened Yaquitepec (after the Yaqui Indians of Sonora, Mexico.)

In the years that followed, the couple had three children who grew up naked, home-schooled by their parents and playing with lizards and packrats instead of conventional toys. Amidst the backbreaking work of trying to maintain a household in the absence of any modern conveniences (or even water), Tanya wrote poetry, and in 1939 Marshall chronicled the family’s grand experiment in the Saturday Evening Post. He later launched a series of articles in Desert Magazine that throbbed with enthusiasm for the primitive lifestyle, and he delighted the magazine’s readers with tales of the family’s ingenious adaptations to their harsh environment. But the adventures came to an end in 1946 when Tanya filed for divorce and moved the children back to the city. Two years later Marshall died of heart disease at the age of 59.

Today Ghost Mountain is a part of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and although most of Yaquitepec has melted back into the earth, traces of the family’s peculiar domicile remain in the site. It’s a popular hiking destination, and for anyone interested in learning about the man who put it on the map, a rich new resource has just become available in the form of a website, www.marshalsouth.com.

The site was created by Diana Lindsay. A co-founder of the El Cajon-based Sunbelt Publications, Lindsay has long been transfixed by the saga of the South family. She mentioned it in her 1973 history of the desert state park (published by Copley Books). Eighteen years later, I myself wrote a much more extensive account of the story for the Reader, “The Hermits of Ghost Mountain.”  But Lindsay felt there was still more to be unearthed, and in 2001 shdianabooke plunged into several years of serious sleuthing that culminated in her 2005 book, Marshal South and the Ghost Mountain Chronicles: An Experiment in Primitive Living.

Hardcore Southophiles can pay a $9.95 annual membership, available through the site, that gives them unlimited access to published and unpublished articles, novels, poems, artwork, and photographs by and pertaining to the sage of the desert. But the site also offers a lot of excellent free material, including two rare film clips of the South family, directions to and maps of the area, and extensive information about the family’s experience.

I have to chuckle at the thought of Marshal, who heaped so much scorn on the trappings of modernity, having his own little homestead in cyberpace. At the same time, I’m pretty sure he would have loved it.

 

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Posted in Desert Life, Free and fun, Looking Back in Time, San Diego Sights, The Natural World | 5 Comments »

100 Years of Positive Spin

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

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We’re still a half-dozen years from the celebrations that will doubtless erupt in Balboa Park to mark the 100th anniversary of the 1915 Panama-California Exposition (the influential event that, among other things, made the park what it is today). But one institution within the park is fast approaching centenarian status: the classic wood carousel located at Zoo Place and Park Boulevard. It was built in 1910 by the Herschell-Spillman company in North Tonawanda, New York, and the current owners aren’t sure what month it was completed and shipped west (to an LA amusement center called Luna Park). But I figure if that happened in the spring, then this will be the 100th summer the old merry-go-round has been giving riders a mesmerizing whirl.

Like the carousel’s exact date of construction, the record of when it made its way south to San Diego has been lost. The 1915 Expo included a carousel, but that one may have been a Dentzel that was later moved to San Francisco. (The San Diego Union-Tribune’s critic-at-large, Welton Jones, reported in a 1993 article that he’d heard this from “the national carousel grapevine.”) Virginia Long, a long-time owner of the carousel, believed that an Englishman by the name of H.D. Simpson bought it from the Luna Park operators and operated it periodically both at Coronado’s Tent City and in Balboa Park during the mid- to late-19-teens and the beginning of the 1920s, according to Jones’ story.

I find it mind-boggling to imagine anyone back in those pre-18-wheeler days moving the carousel anywhere with any regularity. Unlike the merry-go-rounds designed for today’s county fairs, the local Herschell-Spillman was never intended to be portable. It’s what’s known as a “park” carousel – meant to occupy a space on a permanent basis.  By 1922, it had settled in near the site where the Reuben H. Fleet Science Center stands today. Most of its riders then were adults, passing the time while waiting for one of the trolleys that ran through the park back then, Bill Brown recently told me. In 1968, the merry-go-round moved to its current location where Brown oversees its operation in the decagonal building that looks “like a Bavarian farm building,” in the words of the current owners.

Brown isn’t one of them, though he has participated in a big chunk of the carousel’s history. A friendly fellow now in his early 50s, he first applied for a job there on his 16th birthday, and he still seems to enjoy working the mechanisms that bring the grand old contraption to life. He loosens a hand brake than slowly positions the clutch arm to match the speed of the central wheel.  This takes about 80 seconds. Then he flips a little 3-minute egg timer that the carousel’s operators have been using since the 1940s. Once the grains have run down, it takes another 45 seconds to apply the brake and stop the rotation — making the total ride a little more than six minutes long. “I think that’s relatively long for merry-go-rounds,” Brown told me.

The Balboa Park carousel stands out in other ways. It’s one of only a handful that’s been honored with a Historic Carousel Award by the National Carousel Association. The military band organ (similar to a player piano) near its center can still be coaxed into emitting jolly carousel music, though the antique music sheets read by the device tend to jam when the weather isn’t just right. (Music CDs do the job at other times.) The Balboa Park carousel is also one of only about a dozen carousels in the world that still tantalyzes riders with a brass ring. (Snatching it successfully earns the snatcher a free ride.)

Because of the advantage conferred by their height, the ride’s giraffes tend to be favored rose-horse-edited.jpgby clever children. “But the stork’s seat is pretty high too,” Brown confided. “A lot of people don’t notice that.” He told me that the “lead horse,” decorated with roses, has been a perennial favorite of little girls, while little boys often make a dash for the lion. But the on-board menagerie (which was hand-carved by European craftsmen who were paid $2 for a 10-hour workday) includes something for every taste: 12 jumping horses, 15 standing ones, a camel, 2 dogs and 2 cats, a dragon, 2 frogs, 2 giraffes, a goat, 2 mules, 2 ostriches, 2 pigs, 2 roosters, 1 tiger, 2 zebras, 3 chariots, and the stork and lion.

The merry-go-round is still on winter hours, operating from around 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. weekends. But the summer schedule will begin June 15 and continue till September 5. Rides cost $2 each or $10 will get you 6.  

 

Posted in Balboa Park, Kidstuff, Looking Back in Time, San Diego Sights | 1 Comment »

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