Archive for the ‘Bird Rock’ Category

First American Margarita?

Friday, December 11th, 2009

MargaritaCould the first American version of the margarita truly have been served on the current site of La Jolla United Methodist Church? That’s the story recounted on the wall of the newly inaugurated Bird Rock History Museum (located within the Bird Rock Coffee Roasters facility at 5627 La Jolla Boulevard).

The brief account cites a 2006 article in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette as one source for the claim, but a little online sleuthing reveals that the Post-Gazette account appeared just days after a lengthy obituary for 91-year-old “margarita pioneer” Albert Hernandez Sr. was published  in the San Diego Union-Tribune.  As obit writer Jack Williams told the story, Hernandez in 1947 had been working as a bartender at the La Plaza restaurant, which occupied a mission-style building on La Jolla Boulevard. (Originally used as a station on the trolley line connecting downtown San Diego with La Jolla, the building later housed the restaurant and an arts and crafts school, then in 1953 became the home of the church that occupies the much-expanded complex today.)

According to the obituary, Hernandez’s boss in 1947 spent a lot of time in Mexico and told his bartender about a drink being served in Rancho La Gloria, “midway on the old road that connected Tijuana with Rosarito Beach.” Supposedly the bartender there, one Carlos “Danny” Herrera, had concocted a drink for an actress named Marjorie King, who claimed to be allergic to all hard liquor except for tequila. In her honor, he named it the margarita.

Hernandez then began trying  to reproduce the drink, as his boss recalled it, and eventually settled on a formula of 1 ounce of Jose Cuervo Gold tequila, a half-ounce of Cointreau, and an ounce of fresh lime juice. Originally mixed with crushed ice, he later began processing the ingredients in a blender. In a 1986 interview, Hernandez credited the restaurant owner with coming up with the idea of dipping the glass rim in salt, adding that by the mid-1950s, every bar in San Diego was serving some variation on this theme.

Alternative claims for the margarita’s origins do exist, but enough of them include a connection to Herrera or at least Baja that I find it at least possible that the drink’s US incarnation did first take shape at the La Jolla location.Bird Rock Museum.jpg

Although it’s a bit of a stretch to call the new historical repository a “museum” (it consists of a number of large posters that have been mounted on the southern interior wall of the coffeehouse), it includes many other interesting tidbits, particularly for Bird Rock residents. Particularly charming is the chronicle of the white-washed stones that once announced the name of the community on one of the local hillsides. The only problem is that it can be impossible to read the posters, if patrons are sitting at the tables next to them.  But that’s also an incentive to come back.

Cupping

Friday, August 14th, 2009
  

cupFor people who work in the coffee trade, evaluating the quality of any given bean is a lot more complicated than simply brewing up a pot and taking a sip. To evaluate a given coffee’s flavor and aroma, pros engage in “cupping,” a ritual that’s a lot more akin to an oenophilic wine-tasting than it is to the standard American coffee klatsch. Now one local coffee master is sharing the cupping experience with the public.

This morning, I experienced a session at Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, the community hot spot about which I’ve written before. Five of us assembled before owner Chuck Patton in a room equipped with a table set up with 3 small glasses for each participant. In the center of the table, 3 trays contained 3 types of roasted coffee. All were Arabica-class beans, one a rare and expensive “Geisha” varietal from Panama, one from Kenya, and the third from the Malabar coast of India. Patton ground up some of each and placed a heaping scoop in each of our 3 cups. We should try to keep them in order, he instructed.

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Chuck Patton, conducting cupping session

In order to calculate a cupping score (ranging from 0 to 100) for each coffee they evaluate, Patton and his staff fill out a complex form with sections for judging both the dry and wet fragrance, the acidity and brightness, body and mouthfeel, flavor and depth, and finish/aftertaste. My group didn’t write down actual scores, but we learned the basics. First we brought our noses up to each glass of dry grounds, deeply inhaling the aromatic contents. Then Patton poured hot water, in which we allowed the grounds to steep for about 4 minutes. Then we bent over the glasses and used a spoon to break the little crust of grounds floating on top of each, releasing rich caches of more delicious scents. Finally, we brought a spoonful of each type of coffee to our mouths and slurped it noisily, then covered our tongues with it in an attempt to experience the full range of flavors. The differences between the 3 were startling, ranging from the clean, acidic, fruity flavors of the Panamanian, to tomato-soup tones in the Ethiopian, to the funky flavors of the Indian brew (whose aging is enhanced by the salty sprays of the Indian monsoon.)

After the cupping session, Patton led us to a room piled with burlap sacks from around the globe. He and his staff currently roast about 1100 or 1200 pounds of beans every week, a sophisticated process requiring decisions about not only the best temperature and roasting time for each type of beans, but also the speed at which the temperature is reached, and the adjustments necessary to compensate for shifting environmental factors like the weather and humidity. Patton’s a partisan of roasting less than many of his competitors because he thinks excess roasting can obscure the beans’ interesting varietal characteristics. I was also surprised to learn that the lighter the roast, the higher the caffeine content.

Since its inception in 2002, Bird Rock Coffee has made a big deal of its commitment to organic farming and fair-trade practices for growers. So I was interested to hear that Patton has been moving beyond the simple but comfortable “fair trade” rubric to concentrate more on trading directly Unroasted beanswith individual farmers, to help them earn much more than they would within a local co-op. Patton also has begun to work on serving another basic human need in the growing communities he patronizes, bringing ni simple water-filtration systems.

For the San Diego community, he’s currently offering the cupping sessions every Friday at 10:30 a.m. Although they’re free, the space is small, so it’s best to call ahead (858/551-1707) to make a reservation.

Brewing a Sense of Community

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

brcc-sign-cropped.jpgAs I write this, it’s 3 p.m. on a May-gray Thursday afternoon — the deadest time of the week at Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, by my reckoning — and it still feels like a sociable place to be taking a break.  Mornings — weekdays, weekends — this place hums with a communal buzz.  Coming up on its third anniversary as a retail operation, BRCR particularly blossomed after owner Chuck Patton expanded into the storefront adjoining the original space at 5627 La Jolla Boulevard.  Since then it’s become a de facto community center — one of those happy shared spaces where you not only chat with your neighbors but walk away feeling that you like them.

That’s an achievement on this stretch of road. Years ago the commercial strip running through Bird Rock enjoyed an incarnation as a restaurant row, but most of the stellar operations (Cindy Black’s, L’Escargot, Issimo) left long ago. Things became downright bleak during the years when the gigantic Seahaus condo project and then the Bird Rock street-beautification efforts were inching along on what seemed to be an excruciatingly slow construction schedule — spewing dust, obstructing traffic, and keeping everyone from getting to the shops struggling to stay in business.

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The dust finally settled and the last of the plants were in the ground by last summer, and drivers on the boulevard now seem to have gotten the hang of negotiating the string of roundabouts that were installed to slow traffic down. But that alone doesn’t explain BRCR’s success — not with a new, stylish Starbucks almost directly across the street.  It’d be nice if I could honestly say the secret was the coffee, which is about as politically correct imaginable — organic, shade grown, fair traded, bird-friendly. Sheesh! I think the coffee’s excellent. But Starbucks brews good joe too.

Here’s what I think makes this place work: 1) The architecture. When those glass garage doors are open, the interior space merges with the public space, and at least in that little patch of San Diego, the outside world seems kinder and more civil. 2) Lots of inviting places to sit, including the sidewalk tables and the wide varnished window seats built into the facade. 3) Barristas who may just be the friendliest in South La Jolla/PB, 4) That community room decorated with watercolors painted by the kids at Bird Rock Elementary and stocked with magazines.

It’s all little stuff, but it adds up.  And sure there are other coffee houses all over San Diego County that have conjured up a similar mix of magical elements, but every time one does, it’s cause for some celebration.