Archive for the ‘Balboa Park’ Category

Global Consciousness-Raising

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

No theater in the US has had a longer commitment to presenting Shakespeare than San Diego’s Old Globe.  That’s one of the factoids I learned on a recent behind-the-scenes tour of the landmark theatrical complex.IMGP3942

I had wanted to see the results of the recently completed $22 million renovations. For anyone accustomed to associating just one name with this place – Cassius Carter, a Shakespeare lover and district attorney active in San Diego in the early 1900s whose name was given to the theater-in-the-round that opened in 1969 — the new appellations are a little head-spinning. The whole complex has now been named after local philanthropist Conrad Prebys, who kicked in $10.4 million of the construction funds. The Globe’s directors used that money to demolish the Carter and replace it with a new theater that’s been named for $6 million donors Sheryl and Harvey White.  Also new is an education center named after Karen and Donald Cohn ($5.35 mil) and a events room named after Kathryn Hattox ($5 mil). Even the lobby has been christened after Erna and Andrew Viterbi ($2 mil). It seems almost miraculous that the new bathrooms incorporated into the White Theater don’t have namesakes too.

Although the new theater at first glance resembles the Carter (it’s still a theater-in-the-round), it now boasts more than just those bathrooms (which the old facility lacked). Entrances and exits have been greatly improved and 30 seats added, including some thIMGP3934at are wider.  (There’s even a loveseat to accommodate jumbo-sized theatrical patrons.)

The tour took in more than just the new stuff, including lots of  inside touches. We were led into the actors’ green room, dressing rooms, and the costuming department, which has a year-round staff of 16 and can balloon up to more than 60 people during the busiest times of the year. The latter yielded a particularly fascinating factoid, namely that misting vodka on smelly clothes removes the body odor without leaving any stain. I also learned that the Globe never uses as an on-stage prop any book published after the date of the time portrayed in the play. Our guide mentioned that the first incarnation of San Diego’s Old Globe was designed for the 1935 Exposition by Thomas Wood Stevens as a copy of one built for the Chicago world’s fair, which in turn was a copy of the Globe in London. Quite the huckster, Stevens presented up to 6 severely abridged (50-minute-long) Shakespearean plays a day.

Although I took the tour with a group from the San Diego Professional Tour Guide Association, the Globe offers the backstage tours at 10:30 a.m. many Saturdays and Sundays year-round. The charge is $5 per person; $3 for students and folks aged 60 and older. No reservation is necessary, but call (619) 231-1941 to make sure tours are planned for any given weekend.

Giddyap

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

SDPD horses edited

Looks like the city’s horses are going to fetch much higher prices than expected. More than a month after word leaked out that the longstanding equestrian unit was being axed to save money, the horses finally have been put up for auction on the Public Surplus website . Although similar animals have previously sold in the $2,000 to $2,500 range, the seven geldings already were commanding bids ranging from $3,000 to $4,500 when I just checked a few minutes ago.

That makes me feel slightly better.  It seems like recognition – if a pallid sort – of how valuable the horses were.

I was reminded of that at the end of December, when I talked to Sgt. Bret Righthouse about the bad old days before a cadre of mounted San Diego police department officers began routinely patrolling Balboa Park. That was back in 1994. Transients and illegal aliens had set up permanent encampments; some even built huts on the rooftops of buildings in the park’s central mesa. Illicit sexual activity was rampant, along with drug sales, in the brushy hillsides of the west mesa. Discarded syringes littered the playgrounds, and car theft rings abounded. “It was honestly to the point where I wouldn’t bring my family here,” Righthouse recalled. “Maybe you’d go to a museum for an hour or two, but it wasn’t a park you could just walk in and enjoy.”

When a 24-year-old actor was killed in a drive-by shooting one night as he strolled across the Laurel Street Bridge with his girlfriend, public anxiety skyrocketed. So the police department decided to beef up the horse-patrol unit that had been established in 1983 but which had shrunk to almost nothing by the beginning of the ‘90s. Righthouse joined the squad then; in its expanded form, it included two sergeants and a dozen officers. Working two shifts a day, seven days a week, the equestrian teams roamed the park’s roads and pathways from seven in the morning until 1:00 a.m., confronting criminals, arresting and later re-arresting the same offenders. Soon the park’s resident scofflaws tired of the routine and moved out. “Basically we decimated the crime,” Righthouse said.

He recalled how the early dramatic results in Balboa Park soon caught the attention of police in other parts of the city, and the equestrian unit began making sorties into other troubled areas. The unit streamlined the steps it took to enlist its aid. “All you had to do was make a phone call,” Righthouse said. Little by little, police supervisors throughout the city began to recognize that the cops on horseback could be used “like a city-wide strike force.” In summers the teams patrolled both Mission Beach and Pacific Beach, intervening in one rowdy scuffle after another.  Righthouse says during one long Fourth of July at Mission Beach, the officers stopped counting how many fights they had broken up when the number reached about 100. “The horses would literally run from one problem group to another.” Officers were adept at hand-cuffing suspects from the saddle; they carried the same weapons as any regular patrol officer. One time the troublemakers consisted of a drunken beach crowd intent upon overturning a lifeguard vehicle. The horseback officers dispersed the mob with ease.

Using the horses for such tasks required that the animals be desensitized to sights and noises that would make most horses rear up or stampede: traffic, trolleys, crowds, waving flags, flashing lights, flares, blaring horns, and so much more. “A horse is a flight animal,” Righthouse pointed out. For the police work, that most basic instinct had to be overridden. The animals had to learn to walk up and down curbs painted a variety of colors, all of which might pose a different kind of danger — from the horse’s naïve perspective. They had to ignore manhole covers, climb flights of stairs, negotiate narrow passageways – without balking or panicking. Crowd control long ago was added to the unit’s routine duties, and to handle that, the horses had to learn how to synchronize their movements with other horse teams, as well as officers on foot, who might be aiming — and using – riot guns. “People think there aren’t a lot of political demonstrations in San Diego, but we’ve worked hundreds of protests. We’ve literally lined up and pushed crowds out of the way while people threw rocks and bottles at us.”

Righthouse said his experiences had showed him that “ten horses could move a crowd that it would take 100 foot cops to do….  And the amount of force necessary to move a crowd with a horse is far less than that required by foot officers. We move very slowly; we don’t even touch people.” A horse and rider decked out in riot gear evokes primordial fears of being trampled.  Even agitated, aggressive humans edge away.

Now that the horses are going, all that capacity will be gone (in 8 more days, when the auction closes).  But there’s one more opportunity to view the animals. Their long-time home in the park will be open from 9 to noon tomorrow (Thursday) for inspeSDPD horse sign.jpgction by potential buyers (or anyone who pretends to be one, I imagine.) To reach the stables, take Park Boulevard to President’s Way, and turn right at the first unmarked street. The road leads down to the stables area. Bring a carrot.

Topless

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

IMGP3944I was startled the other day by the new look at the Sculpture Court Cafe adjoining the San Diego Museum of Art and its sculpture garden. It’s been my favorite place to eat in Balboa Park since it was the Waters Cafe, and when Guiseppe Ciuffa took over the operation last summer, that only made me like it more.  Ciuffa, who was born outside of Rome, also is the chef at the Museum Cafe at the Museum of Contemporary Art in La Jolla, and he owns a catering company than I’ve used for San Diego Insider Tours.  The fare at the cafe in the park is fresh and beautifully delivered. (Among some of the more interesting items on the menu: a yummy Tuscan cannellini bean and black cabbage soup, a cured salumi board, roasted portobello pizza, and an “ultimate” grilled cheese sandwich made from San Daniele prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil pesto on sourdough bread.) Prices are reasonable, you can always get in, and it’s usually pleasant to gaze out  the sculpture collection from the protected space of the covered courtyard.

Except… the cloth roof is missing at the moment.  That gives the courtyard a whole different (sunnier and more open) look. The change was unintentional, I learned when I asked the fellow manning the front desk at the entrance. Apparently those savage rainstorms the week before last dealt a fatal blow to the fabric and it had to be taken down. But the roofless state created insurance problems of some sort, I was told, so for the moment, the cafe is serving only food prepared offsite.

Happily, the attendant assured me the new material should be installed within the next two to three weeks — at which point the kitchen will return to normal operations.  That’s a relief to anyone looking for an idyllic spot to rest and refuel in the park.

 
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The courtyard, pre-tempest

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The current topless state

 

 

Organ Madness

Saturday, June 27th, 2009

Hot on the heels of my post yesterday about the summer organ festival in Balboa Park comes today’s “tip of the week” on the ever-interesting San Diego Travel Tips website. It’s pretty much everything you’d ever want to know about the Spreckels Organ, including a video clip of civic organist Carol Williams playing the “Star-Spangled Banner,” and a slide show of the inner workings of this remarkable mega-instrument. Recommended reading.

A Little Summer Organ Music in the Dark

Friday, June 26th, 2009

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I have a soft spot in my heart for the Organ Pavilion.  I love the stories associated with it: how John Spreckels donated the money for it to be built for the first Expo in Balboa Park on the understanding that the city would forevermore sponsor a free weekly concert there for the citizenry. How at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve, 1915, Woodrow Wilson pressed a telegraph key in the White House that lighted up San Diego’s gigantic musical instrument (still today the largest outdoor concert organ in the world), setting off a rollicking fireworks displayed and kicking off the two-year extravaganza. I’ve heard the organ played at times during the day, but it took Valerie Scher’s excellent post closer-editedthe other day on the San Diego News Network about the opening of this year’s Summer Organ Festival to finally inspire me to get to the organ pavilion at night.

Nighttime is a much more magical way to experience the organ. Extravagantly lighted, it’s a visual feast in the dark. This summer’s festival will feature artists from as far away as Argentina and Germany, as well as a movie night (Buster Keaton’s 1929 The Cameraman on August 24). For the full schedule of this summer’s festival offerings, which start at 7:30 p.m. every Monday night through August 31, go to www.sosorgan.com.

 

A Death in the Pond Family

Saturday, May 30th, 2009
Photo by Neal Matthews

Photo by Neal Matthews

The big old catfish no longer lurks in the shadows of the lily pads and lotus beds in Balboa Park’s reflecting pond. He was partial to the bed in the pond’s southeastern corner, and people who loved him say he would emerge from there to break the waters in greeting or snatch hot dogs, his favorite treat. But he died around 3 a.m. last Sunday, May 24. For a fish, he has an unusual number of mourners.

One is Debbie Johnson, a local artist who often sketches near the pond. She says she started interacting with the catfish when she noticed that he seemed to look her in the eye. Within the last few months, she’d gotten in the habit of stopping by the park at least 4 mornings a week, “just to visit him.” That’s how she met Neal Matthews, another long-time admirer of the wily old bottom feeder. Johnson and Matthews traded observations, and both recently became alarmed when other denizens of the reflecting pond started turning up mauled or missing. On May 15, the two wrote the park’s senior ranger, Casey Smith, requesting that the penalties for harming the pond’s denizens be displayed. Both were delighted when Smith told them that warning signs, which had disappeared over time, would be reinstated. But by the end of last week Johnson had other concerns. The nearly 3-foot-long catfish seemed “a little off,”"  she told me. “He was letting the koi get close to him, and he looked irritated. And when I gave him a hot dog, he just ignored it.” The next morning, she saw no sign of the creature, but when she and her boyfriend returned late Saturday afternoon, they found it floating upside down under the gaze of a small crowd of perturbed onlookers.

Johnson started crying, and even after leaving the scene, she continued fighting tears. So she and her boyfriend decided to try to determine what had caused the death. On the bridge in front of the Botanical Building, they ran into a pond-maintenance worker named Louis, who hadn’t yet heard about the news.  The three of them managed to find and extract the piscine carcass — only to realize that the fish was still moving.

Reached by phone, Smith (the chief ranger) gave permission for it to be transported to a super-oxygenated pond at Louis’s house that “has a truss for taking care of sick fish,” Johnson says. But although the transfer went okay and Louis kept vigil over the animal, it died about 3 a.m.

The next morning, “It was like a President had died or something,” says park ranger Kim Duclo. He and another ranger were assigned to retrieve the catfish (which Duclo says some park habitues had dubbed Bubba)  from Louis’s home in City Heights and investigate the death. They took it to Chollas Lake, where they knew there was a scale that would accommodate the hefty corpse (which weighed in at 22.7 pounds.) They also took several dozen photographs and found no evidence of any barbs or damage to the gills. “I’m not an ichthyologist,” Duclo says, so he couldn’t reach a clearcut conclusion about why the fish had died. But he points out that the pond was never designed to accommodate fauna. (Built for the 1915 Expo, it was inspired by Persian reflecting ponds and primarily intended to enhance the architectural effect of the Botanical Building.)

Almost all the fish living in it have been released there surreptitiously. (One exception are tiny fish introduced by the Department of Agriculture to help control mosquitoes, but Duclo believes most or all of those have been gobbled up by the bigger fish.) He says it’s technically illegal to put anything in the pond, but the park rangers lack the resources to consistently prevent that. They also aren’t able to care for the fish the way they’d be treated in an aquarium. The fish instead depend for food on the kindness of park visitors, and Matthews says he’s heard that some of the park’s resident homeless people look out for would-be illegal fishermen.

Matthews also talked to a groundskeeper who remembered having moved the big catfish from one pound to another in 1999, when it already weighed several pounds. That leads Matthews to conclude that the catfish must have been at least 10 to 12 years old. “I’m in mourning for the poor guy,” says Matthews, who bonded with the fish several years ago. He was undergoing chemotherapy and stem-cell transplants to battle Hodgkin’s disease at the time, and the catfish’s resilience inspired him. “He sustained me when I was at my worst.” Also comforting was the human response to the old animal. “If this were the South, he’d have been [caught and eaten and] gone long ago.” Instead he grew huge, and the day after his death, a cluster of memorial flowers appeared on the bridge.

100 Years of Positive Spin

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

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We’re still a half-dozen years from the celebrations that will doubtless erupt in Balboa Park to mark the 100th anniversary of the 1915 Panama-California Exposition (the influential event that, among other things, made the park what it is today). But one institution within the park is fast approaching centenarian status: the classic wood carousel located at Zoo Place and Park Boulevard. It was built in 1910 by the Herschell-Spillman company in North Tonawanda, New York, and the current owners aren’t sure what month it was completed and shipped west (to an LA amusement center called Luna Park). But I figure if that happened in the spring, then this will be the 100th summer the old merry-go-round has been giving riders a mesmerizing whirl.

Like the carousel’s exact date of construction, the record of when it made its way south to San Diego has been lost. The 1915 Expo included a carousel, but that one may have been a Dentzel that was later moved to San Francisco. (The San Diego Union-Tribune’s critic-at-large, Welton Jones, reported in a 1993 article that he’d heard this from “the national carousel grapevine.”) Virginia Long, a long-time owner of the carousel, believed that an Englishman by the name of H.D. Simpson bought it from the Luna Park operators and operated it periodically both at Coronado’s Tent City and in Balboa Park during the mid- to late-19-teens and the beginning of the 1920s, according to Jones’ story.

I find it mind-boggling to imagine anyone back in those pre-18-wheeler days moving the carousel anywhere with any regularity. Unlike the merry-go-rounds designed for today’s county fairs, the local Herschell-Spillman was never intended to be portable. It’s what’s known as a “park” carousel – meant to occupy a space on a permanent basis.  By 1922, it had settled in near the site where the Reuben H. Fleet Science Center stands today. Most of its riders then were adults, passing the time while waiting for one of the trolleys that ran through the park back then, Bill Brown recently told me. In 1968, the merry-go-round moved to its current location where Brown oversees its operation in the decagonal building that looks “like a Bavarian farm building,” in the words of the current owners.

Brown isn’t one of them, though he has participated in a big chunk of the carousel’s history. A friendly fellow now in his early 50s, he first applied for a job there on his 16th birthday, and he still seems to enjoy working the mechanisms that bring the grand old contraption to life. He loosens a hand brake than slowly positions the clutch arm to match the speed of the central wheel.  This takes about 80 seconds. Then he flips a little 3-minute egg timer that the carousel’s operators have been using since the 1940s. Once the grains have run down, it takes another 45 seconds to apply the brake and stop the rotation — making the total ride a little more than six minutes long. “I think that’s relatively long for merry-go-rounds,” Brown told me.

The Balboa Park carousel stands out in other ways. It’s one of only a handful that’s been honored with a Historic Carousel Award by the National Carousel Association. The military band organ (similar to a player piano) near its center can still be coaxed into emitting jolly carousel music, though the antique music sheets read by the device tend to jam when the weather isn’t just right. (Music CDs do the job at other times.) The Balboa Park carousel is also one of only about a dozen carousels in the world that still tantalyzes riders with a brass ring. (Snatching it successfully earns the snatcher a free ride.)

Because of the advantage conferred by their height, the ride’s giraffes tend to be favored rose-horse-edited.jpgby clever children. “But the stork’s seat is pretty high too,” Brown confided. “A lot of people don’t notice that.” He told me that the “lead horse,” decorated with roses, has been a perennial favorite of little girls, while little boys often make a dash for the lion. But the on-board menagerie (which was hand-carved by European craftsmen who were paid $2 for a 10-hour workday) includes something for every taste: 12 jumping horses, 15 standing ones, a camel, 2 dogs and 2 cats, a dragon, 2 frogs, 2 giraffes, a goat, 2 mules, 2 ostriches, 2 pigs, 2 roosters, 1 tiger, 2 zebras, 3 chariots, and the stork and lion.

The merry-go-round is still on winter hours, operating from around 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. weekends. But the summer schedule will begin June 15 and continue till September 5. Rides cost $2 each or $10 will get you 6.  

 

Conquering Heroes

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

el-cid-closeup.jpgVisitors to Balboa Park often comment on the striking statue of Vasco Nuñez de Balboa that stands roughly midway between the Spreckels Organ Pavilion and the San Diego Museum of Art. The only problem is — it’s not Balboa.

It might make sense for the park to contain a heroic, oversized representation of the first European expedition leader to lay eyes on the Pacific Ocean near the Isthmus of Panama. According to one researcher, San Diego’s city fathers wanted to commission such a tribute after Balboa’s name was picked to replace the prosaic “City Park” moniker when the site was being readied for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. (The expo celebrated the long-awaited opening of the Panama Canal.) But money for a public sculpture wasn’t available at the time.

More than a dozen years passed before a deep-pocketed benefactor stepped up with an offer. He was Archer M. Huntington, son of California railroad magnate Collis P. and cousin to Henry Edward Huntington (who gave Pasadena its magnificent library). Archer was a lover of Spanish art and architecture, and when he saw the plans for San Diego’s Spanish Renaissance-style Fine Arts Building, he offered to pony up the funds not only for a library within it but also for a statue of the legendary Spanish warrior El Cid, to be erected in front of the art museum. Archer’s wife Anna, a celebrated sculptress, had just created such a work, and the Huntingtons gave one replica of it to the city of Sevilla in Spain. A second went to the New York-based American Hispanic Society, which Archer had founded. The philanthropic couple sent a third replica to a 1929 Exhibition of American Sculpture in San Francisco, but once that ended, the six-ton statue was moved to its current location in Balboa Park.

It was installed on a 14-foot-tall Indiana limestone base designed by William Templeton Johnson, the Fine Arts Building’s architect, and pomp and speechifying marked the statue’s official debut on July 5, 1930. After delivering a florid tribute, the Spanish ambassador to the United States (sent by the King of Spain to honor the occasion), pulled a cord designed to unveil the art work. But the cloth got caught on El Cid’s brandished spear, and two young boys in the crowd had to be recruited to scramble up and free the tangle. el-cid-silhouette.jpg

Since then the statue has endured other minor occasional indignities. Teenagers have painted it, and when the Navy occupied the park during World War II, officers (oblivious to the protective value of the patina) ordered that its brass be polished to a shine.

The statue also faced the threat of some competition in the early 1990s, when arts patron Elizabeth North offered to commission a sculpture of Balboa and donate it for placement within the park.  But critics of the offer charged that Balboa was a brutal mass murderer unworthy of glorification. Others protested the scale of the proposed design. Squabbling over where to put any Balboa statue also helped to derail the Balboa project, but North ultimately wound up donating the money to fund the lovely fountain that now graces the plaza in front of the museum.

Happy trails

Monday, January 5th, 2009

trail-5-sign-edited.jpgThroughout my 35 years in San Diego, I’ve visited Balboa Park  hundreds of times. I’ve written articles about it and led tour groups through it. But the recently inaugurated Balboa Park Trails system is opening doors and pointing the way to new pleasures, even for veteran park lovers like me.

Senior Park Ranger Casey Smith says roughly 24 loop trails ideal for walking and running have been identified throughout the 1172-acre preserve. All the trails run along existing byways, which range from well-trod concrete sidewalks to steep and rutted paths that penetrate the park’s little-explored canyons. But never before have they been mapped and measured and marked with easy-to-read signage. That’s what’s happening with the new trails project, which was conceived about two years ago when community activists David Contois and Alyssa Wolven separately approached Smith about the need for and value of such a system.

Contois and Wolven also helped obtain funding from the San Diego Foundation, and other community members helped plan the project. Smith says it cost about $8000 to complete the first phase, which emanates from the corner of Sixth Avenue and Upas Street (the northwest corner of the park).

There you find a large blue sign bearing agateway-sign-edited.jpg map and detailed descriptions of the five trails starting from the Sixth and Upas “Gateway.” These range in length from 1.5 to 6.6 miles, and in challenge from Easy (level, easily accessible concrete walkways) to Difficult (half of it consisting of sloping to steep dirt trails.)  Trail #5, the difficult 6.6.-mile one, has proven to be the most popular so far, according to park rangers.  Among other things, it explores the little-known Marston Hills Canyon, rambles up Gold Gulch, and follows the bridle path that runs along the western side of Highway 163.

Extensive clearing of some of the park’s canyons has taken place during the past two years, and as this occurred the homeless and drug users who once claimed these areas have move out too. So the trails that run through the groves of redwoods and Torrey Pines and Norfolk pines and olives trees and other wonderful woodsy specimens in these areas feel more like wilderness than urban wilds.

Smith says the next phase of the project will be a gateway erected in the Morley Field dog park parking lot; he hopes that will be up by June of 2009. With luck, the other three gateways will follow at roughly 6-month intervals after that. In the meantime, a map of the first phase can be downloaded from http://www.balboapark.org/maps/TrailMapBalboaAndSixth.pdf.